Easy Care of Lantern Hibiscus Plant

Chinese lantern hibiscus is also called the Red Tiger. In English it is called Lantern Hibiscus. This lantern hibiscus keeps the garden light up for most of the year. There is a lot of diversity in this summer country of ours. With a little care, this plant become filled with flowers. Let’s take a look at how to cultivate lantern in the tub or soil.

Today we will know about Easy Care of Lantern Hibiscus Plant from this report. Lantern Hibiscus is the English name for Lantern Hibiscus and the scientific name is Abutilon Hibiscus. There are many types of hibiscuses in the world. Hibiscus originally belongs to the Malvaceae family.

Easy Care of Lantern Hibiscus Plant

Common Name	Chinese lantern, Red Tiger, Lantern Hibiscus
Botanical Name	Abutilon Hibiscus
Family	Malvaceae
Plant Type	Perennial
Mature Size	5–8 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide
Sun Exposure	Full, partial
Soil Type	Moist, well-drained
Soil pH	Slightly acidic
Suitable Location	Indoor, Outdoor
Flower Color	Red & Yellow
Bloom Time	Autumn, Spring, Summer, Winter
Hardiness Zones	3–9 (USDA)
Native Areas	Europe, Asia
Toxicity	Toxic to people, pets

This beautifully shaped flower in the garden will attract everyone’s attention. Now, due to the popularity of these ornamental and beautiful lanterns the demand is high. Two species of hibiscus are very popular on the Asian continent. One is Hibiscus syriacus and the other is Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. Also in India in Asia, what we commonly known as Bangalore Hibiscus, Pune Variety, Australian, Tahitian Supernova Hibiscus, Tahitian Lion Queen Hibiscus, belongs to the genus Hibiscus rosa-sinensis.

Hibiscus usually grows very well in the tropical and subtropical regions. A tree cannot bear with temperature below 10 ⁰ C. However, trees in the temperate region are kept in the greenhouse and cultivated. Lantern hibiscus trees can grow from 8 to 10 feet in height, but this tree is not much bushy.

This species of bell Hibiscus gives flower almost throughout the year. The tendency to flower is more in the winter, spring and early summer, but during the rainy season, this trend decreases a little bit. If the tree is directly replaced in the ground, the soil must be prepared for it first, but if you want to do it in the tub, like all the plants, this plant will have to make the soil according to its choice, otherwise the growth of the tree will be stopped, and the flowers will not come out.

Pot Selection of Hibiscus: –

Lantern Hibiscus is a perennial plant so it is better to choose a large pot-like tub. In the first case, the plant should be replaced in an 8-inch tub, but in one to one and a half years, it should be transferred to a 10 inch or 12-inch pot. It is not like taking a large pot or tub, there will be a lot of flowers, if you take a big tub, you have to trim the roots of the tree everyone to one and a half years, but you can also take a big pot if you want. While selecting the tub, there must be holes in the bottom and side of the tub, otherwise the excess water will accumulate in the tub and the tree can be lifeless.

Preparation of Hibiscus soil: –

Hibiscus plants require moist, well-drained, well-ventilated, and lightly water-retentive soil. That is, it is best to get large grain sandy soil. Soil or potting mix that contains a lot of organic matter and needs a pot with enough holes to allow excess water to drain away.

Hibiscus grows best in your backyard or balcony, just make sure the soil is slightly acidic i.e. the soil pH is between 6.5 and 6.8.

The best fertile soil for growing hibiscus in containers should be a standard houseplant potting mix. The addition of perlite ensures that water drains freely through the growing medium. It is best to amend the soil with peat moss to increase soil acidity and provide essential nutrients.

To make soil for Bell-Hibiscus, we’ll need one part garden soil that is basically meant by loamy soils, one part of the river’s white sand, one part of the vermicompost or a year-old rotten dung compost, or one year’s rotten leafy compost. Along with these, for 8- or 10-inch tub, half a teaspoon of phosphate, two teaspoons of bone meal, two spoons of horn meal, one spoon of neem cake should be mixed very well to prepare the soil.

Methods of Transplantation: –

• First of all, the holes in the tub should be blocked with bricks/broken pieces of pot.
• After blocking the holes, some sand-gravel should be scattered in the tub and a one-inch bed should be made so that the excess water can go out through the drainage system of the pot.
• After arranging the drainage system of the pot, with some amount of soil should be made a layer throughout the pot, then the air in the soil will go out, therefore the roots of the tree are not likely to rot.
• After this, the tree should be placed in the middle of the pot with a little soil.
• After that, as much soil as needed, the soil should be pressed into the pot. While giving the soil, it should be kept in mind that there is a gap of 2 inches from the top of the pot.

Proper Light: –

After the Transplantation, the tub should be left in the shade for a week. After a week, the tub should be placed in a place where the morning light gets. This plant grows beautifully in the balcony, where the bright light comes in. The Bell- Hibiscus grows well in bright light, but in the summer, the tub has to be kept under the shade, otherwise all the leaves of the plant will burn.

Methods of Watering: –

If the plant is in the soil, it does not require much water but if it is in the tub, the soil should be tested and watered. Trees can be crushed when the water accumulates in the tub, so the soil should be made in such a way that water will not stand on the ground at any time. However, there is a possibility of death if the plant gets excessive rainwater. During the rainy season, spray the fungicide on the tree every 15 days interval and sprinkle some amount at the base of the plant.

The necessary fertilizer: –

Chemical fertilizers have to be applied very carefully on this plant. For the 10-inch tub tree, 10 to 15 DAP/TSP grains should be given to side of the tub. From 15 to 20 days after the application of DAP/TSP, half a spoon of potash should be used, you will use it before the bud is formed in the tree, and at other times you will use half a spoon of Sufala fertilizer on the plant. Remember to use a spoonful of micronutrients every 30 to 45 days interval after the tree is formed.

However, the best food for the lantern Hibiscus plant is organic fertilizer, the use of it makes the tree last longer, the number of flowers in the tree increases, the separation of the leaves is prevented, the leaves turn yellow due to the lack of magnesium. For 10 to 12 inches tub plants, two handfuls of organic fertilizer should be mixed with. Including bonemeal, horn meal, leafy manure, mustard cake, micronutrients etc. Should be used every two months interval.

Diseases and Infestation of insects: –

The lantern Hibiscus plant is attacked by the mailbag or by other insects, and the nuisance of spiders can also be seen under the leaves. If the symptoms occur, it should be suppressed by chemical means. Also, one of the most important problems of lantern Hibiscus tree is that the young tip of the plant gets decomposed by rain. For this, the bacterial pesticides and fungicides have to be mixed together and sprayed on the tree. You are requested to see the videos below for more details.

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FAQ [Frequently Asked Questions]